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After perusing the book aisles, she purchased 'The Nanny' by Lana Ferguson

(Her first, 1983s A Taste of Russia, is a lively introduction to mainstream Russian cuisine that is worth seeking out.) Here, she is on a quest for the primeval roots of Russian cooking, and she finds them in cold, remote towns like Teriberka, 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, where she feasts on gargantuan crab legs boiled in seawater, dipped in butter and washed down with vodka